The museum’s latest fashion exhibition looks back at Naomi Campbell’s career – but feels as though it is slightly sugarcoated and visitors are being held at a distance.
It has to be said, you hear the name Naomi and it is easy to automatically think of Naomi Campbell instantly such as the impact that she has had during her career as a model.
What this exhibition at the V&A does do is not only highlight some of the most iconic outfits she has worn on the catwalk, but also how her love of dance and theatre (she appeared in music videos from a young age) actually was an important aspect as to why she became one of the most familiar faces in the world of fashion. From the way in which she walked down the catwalk, to the types of outfits she would wear with many of which having a sense of theatricality to them.
Yet, there is also a sense about this exhibition of holding visitors at a distance, keeping them from getting too close to understanding Campbell or even fully understanding the impact that she has had on the fashion industry. Early on in the exhibition there are references to Black models which came before and alongside Campbell – including Karen Alexander, Veronica Webb and Beverly Peele – it would have been lovely to have them a bit more incorporated into Campbell’s story or hearing about her influences in her career.
But what is not in dispute is the dazzle and glamour on display here. From a gorgeous feathered cocktail dress by Yves Saint Laurent and her silver sequinned Dolce & Gabbana gown (which she wore when she did her infamous community service) on display on the bottom floor to a whole range of sophisticated styles on display on the top floor – this is certainly a fashion enthusiasts dream.
There is numerous footage dotted throughout, highlighting certain aspects of her career, while her friends pay tribute to her in another video. It certainly feels like a love letter to the model and it is fascinating to hear about her through their perspectives. But it is also interesting to read what the designers she has collaborated with had to say as well, with a special section paying tribute to her close working relationship with Azzedine Alaïa proving to be quite touching.
As always, the V&A knows exactly how to put on a show visually and while the exhibition feels a little constrained given its space restrictions, it certainly gives off the vibes of a fashion show itself – including an interactive catwalk in which you can try to replicate Campbell’s distinctive walk and a mannequin that features Vivienne Westwood’s blue moc-croc 30.5cm platforms in 1993 in which the model took a bit of a tumble in during a show – placed into position as that clip is played in the background along with other career highlights.
But the V&A (who created this exhibition in close collaboration with Naomi Campbell), also put forth just how hard she has worked throughout her career – screens showcasing her numerous magazine covers she has been on, a display of her dressing room, highlighting the chaos and dedication it has taken to get her to where she is today. Her passion for fashion is never in doubt and that in turn is reflected in the number of different designers that she has worked with throughout her career and she certainly shows no signs of slowing down.
Overall, for fans of fashion this is a must-see show. For those who are hoping to find out a little bit more about Campbell herself, she still remains a bit of an enigma and distant – but her legacy is never in doubt.
By Emma Clarendon
NAOMI in Fashion is on display at the V&A until the 6th April 2025.
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐